images of vintage philco refrigerator models

#IMAGES OF VINTAGE PHILCO REFRIGERATOR MODELS MANUAL#

Look for the ENERGY STAR label when shopping. Efficiency: Buying efficiency today means lower operating costs for the future.

#IMAGES OF VINTAGE PHILCO REFRIGERATOR MODELS MANUAL#

Features: Manual defrost models typically use less energy than auto-defrost models.Styles: The most efficient refrigerator designs usually have the freezer compartment on the bottom least efficient are usually side-by-side models.A typical family of four requires a refrigerator capacity of 12-16 cubic feet and another 6-8 cubic feet for freezer capacity. Proper sizing: An oversized refrigerator will waste energy and space.When shopping for a new refrigerator or freezer, consider: To calculate the energy savings you will realize by retiring your old refrigerator, visit ENERGY STAR’s Refrigerator Retirement Savings Calculator. Also, if your old refrigerator requires costly repairs (exceeding a few hundred dollars), then it probably makes sense to replace it with an energy-efficient model. At an electrical cost of 12 cents per kWh, that represents a savings of $150 per year and a potential payback of about 7-9 years. A 20-year-old refrigerator could use 1,700 kWh of electricity every year, compared with about 450 kWh for a similarly sized new ENERGY STAR model. It is probably time to replace your old energy-hog refrigerator when it becomes too expensive to operate.įor instance, refrigerators built in the 1970s may use five times more electricity than new, high-efficiency ones and may cost $200 per year more to run than new ENERGY STAR® models. But whether or not these appliances are really working efficiently is another question. you can use R413a (R49) as a dropin replacement for R12.Many refrigerators and freezers will continue to operate for 15-20 years or even longer. I would ask the shop to pressure test system using dry nitrogen, and spray diluted fairy liquid round suspect joints, this should reveal leak for repair before evacuation & re-charge. Thanks again! I'm going to go with the guy who said R12. Low pressure side of the system? Is that somethingĪ repair shop can fix with this type of compressor? So from what you said I'm guessing the leak is on the When the power was turned off for a extended period The exact same thing that happened a few years earlier Power back on the fridge would not cool past about 55 degrees. The fridge was without powerįor about 72 hours. Then I went out of town and my breaker box flipped aīreaker, the one my fridge was on. I would just use a hair dryer to defrost it while the power I picked it up and never turned off the power again. They installed the line tap and re-charged it with *****. When I turned it back on it wouldn't get cold, it would I turned off the power and let it sit a couple days to It worked fine for about a year until I decided to defrost It would not cool but the compressor was working. I got the fridge about 6 years ago from my Grandfathers I don't believe the problem is the line tap because of R22 is generally used for airconditioning in buildings & I've never heard of it being used in domestic refrigeration applications unless anybody else knows different? I'm 99% sure it'll be R12 that it's on, but as it's no longer available the alternative R409a will have to be used. A good repair shop will replace this valve with what we call a Schraeder stub that is much less likely to leak over time. It's probably that leaking or if you're very unlucky there's a leak on the low side somewhere. These line-tap valves are notorious for leaking after time as the 'O' ring seals on them deteriate. I can see what we call a line-tap valve on the pipe above the compressor -that's what we use to access sealed systems for diagnosing & recharging with a pressure gauge. From what you say it sounds like the leak is on the low pressure side of the system (that's figuratively speaking because when running the low side will be above atmospheric pressure) as when off the low side pressure rises as it equalises with the high side & the increased pressure will exacerbate a leak. These days it's exceptional to see 15 years from a compressor on a domestic fridge, even less on the newer non-CFCs. It's done unbelievably well to last 50 or 60 years. WOW! The compressor looks like an early hermetic (the motor & mechanical parts are sealed within the case) as on modern fridges & not belt drive as I first thought it would be.

Images of vintage philco refrigerator models